How to remove the drive belt. Detailed instructions on how to properly change the alternator belt. Approximate list of units

• How often do you need to change the V-/V-ribbed belt and how to choose the right replacement?
• State-of-the-art belt technology and the benefits of Bosch components
• Recommendations from Bosch Auto Network Experts Belt Replacement Service

What is the function of the accessory drive belt?

Despite its name, the accessory drive belt plays an important role in the operation of the car - it is impossible to reliably supply the car with electrical energy without it. Also from wedge/poly v-belt power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, water pump or engine cooling fan.

During operation drive belt subject to wear. Over time, it loses its original properties, requiring timely replacement. And if you could still put up with the lack of air conditioning in the event of a belt break, then with a sudden failure of the power steering, an emergency situation may arise! Therefore, the condition of the V-ribbed or V-belt must be monitored. Don't wait for it to break.

How often should the accessory drive belt be changed?

The accessory drive belt usually does not have a fixed life span. The regulation defines only the interval for periodic inspection of the belt. After all, the drive system of auxiliary units may be in different conditions operation, therefore, the replacement of components is carried out if defects are detected during the inspection - extraneous noise, kinks or cracks in the belt, its contamination or damage, malfunctions of the rollers and tensioners. Condition monitoring is usually carried out every 30 or 60 thousand kilometers of the car.

How to choose a new belt?

For the correct selection of products, Bosch recommends using the single online parts catalog Bosch Automotive Catalog, where suitable components can be selected by make, model, year of manufacture and modification of the vehicle.

Modern production technologies and advantages of Bosch components

The use of high-quality synthetic materials in the production of Bosch belts allows for reliable operation of the drive system and a long service life. In research centers, scientists and developers use the most advanced polymer bases, as well as develop methods for connecting various structures in a single external form. Bosch produces both V-ribbed and V-ribbed belts, which provide a high coefficient of friction and transmission of the required torque. Engines modern cars become more and more compact. Reflecting this trend, manufacturers are increasingly moving away from tensioners in their accessory drive systems in favor of high-tech ribbed V-belts with an elastic backing. They have become a suitable technical solution and are used in many modern car models.

As a company in direct contact with engine developers and car manufacturers, Bosch has the most up-to-date data on the technical requirements for drive systems. That is why the characteristics of Bosch belts clearly correspond to the factory parameters.

Taking into account the specifics of car operation, the temperature and chemical resistance of materials used in the manufacture of belts is taken into account. Bosch components perform just as reliably in the hottest equatorial climates as they do in polar latitudes. In the latter, maintaining the energy balance of the car is a paramount task for service station repairmen. Through many years of use around the world, Bosch drive belts prove their best qualities. In addition, Bosch belts meet the highest wear resistance requirements. This ensures uninterrupted operation of the accessory drive system for a long time.

V-belt or V-ribbed belt and alternator are the most important components of a single system

Speaking of the accessory drive belt, one cannot fail to note one more component of the drive system - the generator. Modern generators are devices that work in close cooperation with all electronic systems. Today, when you open the hood of many cars, you will see a Bosch generator there. Depending on the application model, these devices are adapted to operate on 12 or 24 volt networks. This makes it possible to expand the market and coverage of products not only for cars, but also for trucks and special equipment. Designers also pay much attention to the unification of generators in relation to various engine lines. As a system supplier, Bosch also provides the widest range of spare parts for generator repair shops.

The production of alternators allows Bosch to offer consumers belts that best meet the requirements of the drive system - whether a car or trucks.

Recommendations from Bosch Auto network specialists Service for checking and replacing the belt

When inspecting the accessory drive system, first of all, attention should be paid to the weakening of friction forces - sagging of the belt, grease on the pulleys and belt, abrasive, etc. You should pay attention to the components of the drive system if there is increased noise or whistling of the belts, often manifested after starting the engine in the cold season.

Bosch has released a special poster illustrating the types of belt damage that require replacement, indicating possible causes faults and how to solve them.

When replacing a belt, carefully review the drive system configuration. Just in case, it will be useful to take a picture or, for example, sketch a diagram of the correct location of the belt.

To remove the old belt, it is necessary to loosen its tension. Modern drive systems typically use an automatic tensioner to keep the belt tensioned correctly. But there are also systems in which it is regulated manually. Tensionless systems using elastic V-ribbed belts are also increasingly being used. It should be noted that if an elastic belt is installed in the original configuration, then it cannot be replaced with a regular one, and vice versa. In addition, the installation of such belts must be carried out using special tools, such as Bosch Elastic Tool Kit 1.0 and Elastic Tool Kit 2.0.

Before installing a new belt, it is recommended to compare it with the dismantled one to make sure that it fits correctly and is fully compatible with other drive components. It is also necessary to pay attention to checking the condition of the rollers, tensioners and other drive components. If any of them are faulty, it can affect the operation of the entire system. For example, if the bearings of the alternator, A/C compressor, or idler rollers are worn or not working properly, this can lead to accelerated wear and a quick failure of the new belt. If necessary, replace defective components.

When installing a new belt, it is necessary to ensure that it is correctly installed and tensioned. In this case, it is very important not to allow the use of an unsuitable tool so as not to damage the pulleys of the drive system units. Deformation or distortion of the pulleys will lead to rapid wear of the belt, increased vibrations and the appearance of extraneous noise. The belt tension should be adjusted according to the type of tensioner and the manufacturer's instructions.

The correct selection of components and a qualified replacement of the belt will help to carry out at the nearest station of the Bosch Auto Service network. All necessary information on belt replacement is available to service specialists in software Bosch ESI, which is used in conjunction with Bosch diagnostic equipment.

An important part of the car design, connecting the camshaft and crankshaft, is the timing belt - timing. Replacing the timing belt is strictly regulated and spelled out in the car's operating manual, however, not all car owners have an idea where the timing belt is located, not to mention its function and replacement.

When to change the timing belt

The movement of the car is ensured by the transmission of torque from the crankshaft to the distribution. It is the timing belt that is responsible not only for this, but also for the synchronism of the operation of the shafts. The gas distribution mechanism also regulates the process of supplying the fuel mixture and the output of internal combustion products.

The timing belt is responsible for transmitting torque and synchronizing the car's shafts.

A broken timing belt causes the shafts to lose synchronization. The valves at the moment of breakage are in the lowered position and collide with the pistons, which ultimately leads to defects and bending of the valves, failure of the pistons, breakage of the seats and scratches on the cylinder walls, followed by deformation of the valve bushings.

The result of such damage is the need for a major overhaul of the engine or its complete replacement.

Reasons for a broken timing belt:

• incorrect operation of the car;
• untimely replacement of a part;
• poor quality tape;
• the appearance of stains of technical liquids on the surface of the product;
• natural wear of the consumable;
• interruptions in the operation of other nodes and systems.

If the following defects appear, it is worth inspecting the timing belt and replacing it:

• the appearance of cracks, bulges and signs of wear on the surface of the product;
• lack of several teeth, tears;
• the presence of oil stains or other liquids on the surface;
• delamination of the belt base;
• frayed end surfaces.

Along with the timing belt, the rollers usually change. Detection of scratches, chips, play and other defects on the water pump is the basis for its replacement. If oil stains are found on the surface of the belt, then the seals should be checked - the failure of these parts can cause such marks to appear.

Replacement frequency

Natural wear, improper operation or other causes lead to the failure of the timing belt and the need to replace it. At the same time, you should not take the situation to the extreme: it is enough to carry out regular diagnostics and a visual assessment of the part. Such a check will help to avoid a break at the wrong time.

The frequency of replacing the timing belt depends on the specific brand of car and is indicated in the vehicle operating manual. Despite the standards established by automakers, many experts advise changing the spare part every 50 thousand kilometers.

When buying a used car, you will have to independently check the condition of the timing belt - it is enough to visually inspect it for wear. Obvious signs of wear are scuffs or cracks on the surface of the belt. However, the presence of such defects does not mean that the belt will immediately fail, since inside it there is a base consisting of metal rods. Thanks to them, the part withstands shock loads and maintains its working condition throughout the entire period of operation.

Timing belt cracking is another clear sign of wear.

Some cars are equipped with timing belts with a reinforced metal cord, which affects their service life, increasing it by an average of 30%. Modern car models are equipped with rubber and metal belts, which have a limited shelf life.

Such parts cannot be repaired - in case of failure they are simply changed. The decision to replace the belt is made not only if it breaks, but also if it sags, stretches or reduces the fit, which adversely affects the synchronous operation of the valves. As a result, this can lead to malfunctions in the functioning of the entire vehicle, the main symptom of which is engine malfunction.

Almost always, along with the timing belt, they change the water pump, or pump. On most cars, this device does its job well until the death of the car, however, in some situations it needs to be changed ahead of time. For this reason, experts advise changing the pump at the same time as the timing belt..

How to choose a part

When choosing timing belts, they rely on several main criteria:

• the invariability of the characteristics and properties of the part throughout the entire operational period;
• no deformation due to stretching;
• lack of defects and obvious signs of destruction.

Today, a wide range of timing belts is presented in automotive stores, which makes it difficult for many car owners to decide on the choice of a particular model.

Products made in Europe are considered to be of the highest quality. This is explained by strict quality control of parts manufactured at European factories: every stage of production is checked, starting from the selection of raw materials and ending with the inspection of the finished part. For this reason, many car owners value Gates brand mechanism belts very highly.

Table: the most popular brands of timing belts according to domestic motorists

When buying timing belts, it is advisable to pay attention to a few nuances that will help determine and understand which spare part is original and which is fake. You can take a closer look at the example of Gates brand belts.

Package

The original spare part is sold in a thick cardboard box with a high-quality printed pattern. Unlike a fake, genuine packaging is not so soft, pleasant to the touch.

Belt teeth

The profile of the belt teeth on the original is even and the same, there are no traces of uneven trimming along the edges of the rubber. It is also worth checking the reverse side - inscriptions and numbers are usually poorly printed on a fake, the marking is not white, but a dirty yellow tint without indicating the country of origin.

Hologram

The holographic mark is always present on the original packaging of Gates belts.

When buying a drive belt, it is advisable to immediately purchase a complete timing kit - its fake is more complex and demanding in execution. It is worth checking how the packaging looks and the quality of the laying of the components - the belt itself and the rollers for it.

Do-it-yourself timing belt replacement

The drive belt replacement scheme is not the most difficult process that you can do yourself in order to save Money. The owner of the car does not need to have special knowledge - just read the instruction manual for the car.

Changing the belt

To replace a timing belt or a complete set of mechanism, you will need the following tools:

• a key with which the tension roller is adjusted;
• cap keys;
• large screwdriver;
• snap ring puller.

Work order:

1. Before starting work, be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery. To ensure free access to the gas distribution mechanism, the engine protection, generator belts, the generator itself, and the power steering fluid reservoir are removed. The listed parts may interfere with the replacement of the belt.

   The open timing mechanism after removing all parts is impressive

2. Then the piston of the first cylinder rises to top dead center and the bolt securing the tension roller is unscrewed. The roller rotates slightly to loosen the belt tension. After that, the part can be safely removed from the roller pulleys, camshafts and pump.
   

   After unscrewing the bolts, the tension roller is removed

3. It is a little more difficult to remove the pulley bolt from the generator drive - you have to fix it in one position crankshaft. It is best to perform this procedure with an assistant - he will hold the teeth of the flywheel ring with a screwdriver while the clutch housing plug is removed.
   

   Fix the crankshaft in one position

4. The crankshaft pulley bolt is unscrewed and removed along with the washer.
   

   Using a screwdriver, the crankshaft pulley block is removed

5. The alternator drive pulley is removed from the crankshaft. Then the timing belt washer is removed from it, after which the tape itself can be removed.
   

   After the crankshaft, the old timing belt is removed

Video: how to remove the timing belt

How to set labels

The marking of the gas distribution mechanism is often carried out using a special tool, clamps - conductors, which are resorted to if the old belt was not put on correctly or the phase regulator is turned. They allow you to fix the crankshaft in one position and eliminate its scrolling.

When using such assistants, the timing marks are set as follows:

1. cranked and camshafts fixed with conductors.
2. The tension roller is loosened with a key.
3. Camshaft gears loosen.
4. The timing belt is tensioned with a roller.
5. The camshaft gear is tightened.

Video: why process a part and set marks using conductors

However, conductors are not a mandatory device for setting timing marks - this can be done without them. It is enough to stock up on keys for 17 and 19. In more detail, the process of setting labels for the mechanism can be considered using the example of a VAZ 2109 car:

1. A new tension roller is installed.
2. The camshaft pulley rotates until the mark on the shaft itself is opposite the bar located on the engine block. After that, it is advisable not to touch the shaft, so as not to move the marks.
3. A bolt is baited onto the crankshaft, designed to be aligned with the pulley marks. The shaft itself is rotated so that the pulley mark is in a strictly vertical position. The correctness of its location is checked by pulling out the rubber plug from the clutch housing.
4. A viewing window appears through which you can see the flywheel. There is a mark on it: if the setting was carried out correctly, then it will be located opposite the engine block strip.
5. Finally, the timing belt is pulled over the crankshaft pulley and camshaft.

Video: tagging spare parts

Instructions: how to install the timing belt correctly

Timing belt tension is one of important parameters affecting the performance of the car engine. Over tightening the part can cause rapid wear of the bearings, idler and water pump. A weak tension can provoke violations of the valve timing and jumping of the belt teeth.

The belt tension level is adjusted using a tension roller - it is rotated around an eccentric axis.

To tighten the timing belt, you will need the following tools:

• a socket head equipped with a ratchet or a key for 17;
• special wrench for turning the tension roller. You can replace it with ordinary drills and a large screwdriver.

The process of tensioning the timing belt or how to make it "change":

1. The front cover is removed from the mechanism belt.
2. Gently and smoothly rotate the crankshaft clockwise for one revolution. You do not need to turn it harder - this way you can turn out all the spark plugs.
3. The crankshaft rotates in reverse side by two teeth on the camshaft pulley, thereby reducing the tension of the leading part of the belt.
4. The tension of the part is checked. With a slight effort of the fingers, a correctly tensioned tape rotates 90 degrees.
5. If the belt is too loose or too tight, then its position is corrected. To do this, the nut securing the tension roller is loosened. After that, the roller is rotated counterclockwise by 10–15 ° for tension, clockwise for loosening.
6. If there is no special key at hand, then drills are inserted into the holes of the roller, and the part itself is turned with a screwdriver.
7. The fastening nut is tightened and the belt tension is re-checked.

Video: timing belt tension

Normally, the tension of the timing belt should be such that the part sags by 5.4 mm when a force of 100 N is applied to it. The belt tension is checked only on a cold engine.

How to replace and tighten the timing without special tools

The timing belt is tensioned using special tools. However, if they are not at hand, you can use a screwdriver and two nails or drills, between which the screwdriver is placed. Similarly, you can use a table fork - it breaks off two prongs in the center, and the rest are bent at the desired angle.

Check belt tension without special tool can be done in several ways:

1. Use a regular ruler and a 10 kg weight. The ruler is placed on the belt between the pulleys, and a weight is placed on it. The belt should be pulled away from the plane by no more than 5 mm.
2. Use the scales - the steelyard. Between the pulleys, a weight hook is attached to the central part of the belt, after which the steelyard is pulled up until it shows 10 kg. After that, the distance at which the belt was pulled is measured - it should not exceed 5.4 mm.

A tightened belt of the mechanism during the operation of the car will squeal unpleasantly, while the life of the part itself, tension rollers and pump bearings will be significantly reduced.

Video: checking the tension of the installed timing

How to install a new pump, change the tension rollers and seals

The water pump has a longer life than the timing belt, so experts advise changing it at the same time as every second belt. It is not advisable to change the pump separately, since the path to it is similar to the path to the timing belt, and once again go through half engine compartment do not want.

The situation is similar with oil seals: they change as they wear and fail - for example, if engine oil leaks appear.

But with tension rollers, the situation is diametrically opposite: you can change them without fail simultaneously with the timing belt.

Treat the rollers and belt after installation with special lubricants to eliminate wear. Litol is considered a good composition, however, experts recommend using special silicone lubricants.

Signs of improper removal and replacement

After installing a new timing belt, car owners often record the appearance of unpleasant noise and whistle while driving. There can be two reasons for this:

1. Technical liquids get on the tape. If whistling and noise appear after a cold start of the engine, then it is likely that either the coolant or engine oil has leaked.
2. Low quality installed part. In this case, only a second replacement of the belt will help.

Whistling and noise are eliminated after replacing the timing belt simply - just lubricate it. For this, special aerosols are used, which can be purchased at automotive stores.

If the lubrication does not help and the whistle persists, then you will have to check all the nodes for leaks. When they are found, they are eliminated, parts are replaced if necessary, after which third-party noises should disappear.

Often, after replacing the tension rollers and the timing belt, an unpleasant hum and vibration of the engine appears. The main reasons for this are incorrectly set labels or errors when installing a balancing belt that rotates 180 degrees in the wrong direction. Vibration is eliminated by checking the marks and re-installing them, as well as adjusting the position of the balancers.

The timing belt is a consumable part that plays a huge role in the operation of a car engine. It may well break and fail, but this problem is solvable. Regular replacement and correct tension ensure the normal functioning of all machine systems and guarantee driving safety.

Let us examine the cases when it is necessary to replace or replace the drum drive belt of the washing machine yourself. But a loose or torn belt indicates certain signs of malfunction that need to be identified and fixed. Indeed, in the event of a breakdown, the belt can damage many electrical wires, sensors and other elements that are located in the back of the washing machine tank. We will also dwell on why the drum drive belt flies or breaks.

1. Features of self-replacement and installation of the drive belt

V-belts. Installed on washing machines asynchronous motors. In cross section, such belts have the shape of a truncated triangle. On the outside, the length of the belt is always indicated, according to which you can choose, if necessary, a new one. Made from tougher material. As a rule, they rarely break.

The V-belt should be tight "like a string" and have very little flex in the middle. Otherwise, problems with spinning and failure of the washing program may occur.

Installation of a flown V-belt drive begins with the engine pulley, the rest is put on the drum pulley, after which we carefully, with effort, rotate the drum pulley, fit the entire belt.

If the belt is stretched, then it is necessary to tension it with the engine. To do this, you need to remove the belt, loosen the engine mounts, move it in the direction of increasing the length of the belt, tighten the mount and install the belt. If the tension of the drive belt is not provided for by the design of the washing machine, then it must be replaced with a new one.

V-ribbed belts. Are established on machines with collector engines. In cross section, they have a serrated shape of several small wedges. They differ in length, which is indicated in millimeters, as well as in shape (“H” or “J”) and the number of wedges, the shape of which depends on the teeth on the engine pulley. For example, the designation on the V-ribbed belt “1287 H8” means that its length is 1287 mm, its wedges are “H” shaped and their number is 8 pieces. The rest of the designations on the belt do not have much meaning.

The installation of the V-ribbed belt must begin with the engine pulley, in the same place where it stood earlier. Next, we put the rest of the belt on the drum pulley and, turning the pulley, install the belt completely. It is desirable that the position of the belt is in the middle of the drum pulley.

The tension of the V-ribbed belt must be such that the middle part can be wrapped around its axis by 360 degrees, and further rotation must be very tight.

Separately, on some models of washing machines (for example, narrow Siltal machines), V-ribbed belts are installed very tightly. This means that when putting the belt on the drum pulley, it may seem that the belt does not correspond to the declared length. But this is not the case, you just need to apply more force than usual when putting on the belt and rotating the pulley, being careful not to hurt your hands.

2. Narrow machine models - more frequent belt wear

Accelerated belt wear is a "disease" of narrow washing machines. All nodes and elements of such models are located close to the body, and the belt is no exception. When the narrow machine is still new, the springs and shock absorbers work properly. But subsequently they wear out a little, the amplitude of the tank during the spin cycle increases and as a result, the belt begins to touch the back wall of the case.

This, in the end, leads to damage and stretching of the belt. Then it needs to be replaced, because the stretched belt subsequently flies off and can damage wires and other elements.

3. The drum pulley cracked and the belt fell off

A cracked or broken drum pulley can also be the cause of a loose belt. The fact is that it is made of a rigid, but brittle alloy, which, if the linen is overloaded, the belt is unbalanced or incorrectly tensioned, may not withstand and burst.

4. Belt fell off due to worn bearings

When the bearings of the washing machine are worn out, this, in addition to extraneous noise, also causes the vibration of the drum pulley, which increases with each wash. If used for a long time washing machine with worn bearings, the vibration of the pulley becomes so strong that the belt during spinning can stretch and fly off, and in some cases break.

5. Overloading and unbalance of laundry lead to belt breakage

Often, the reason that the washing machine belt has come off is a temporary imbalance of the laundry during the spin cycle. If the washing machine failed to spread the laundry evenly before spinning, then during the spin cycle, a sharp blow of the tub against the walls of the housing may occur. Violent shaking may cause the drive belt to come off.

6. Vertical models - flies off due to tank deformation

Such a malfunction often occurs on Brand upright models of washing machines with an ECO (economy option) ending after about 8-10 years of operation. The fact is that over a long period of operation of the washing machine, its plastic tank is deformed, as a result of which the drum pulley and the electric motor pulley gradually shift relative to each other.

This causes the belt on the drum pulley to shift towards the tub of the washing machine. In the future, the belt is so displaced that part of its plane begins to hang over the plane of the drum pulley, and it flies off during the spin cycle.

Temporarily, the problem can be solved by extending the engine towards the housing wall. This can extend the life of the washing machine by half a year or a year.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the tank and possibly the drum, which is unprofitable economically. Therefore, in the end, such a machine has to be replaced.

7. Drying and breaking of the belt, as a result of the rare use of the machine

Often the reason for a broken belt is that it dries out at the point of greatest bend, where the belt goes around the motor pulley. For some reason, this happens mainly on vertical models and after they decide to use the machine after a long break in work.

That is, the bent section of the belt, with a long stay in this state, dries up and takes on a certain rigid shape. After the start of rotation, this section, which has lost its elasticity, begins to stretch and break off.

Hi, I'm Matt, in this video I will show you a few ways to put on a tight drive belt on a washing machine. Drive belt on washing machines should be tight to prevent slippage. It is stretched from the motor pulley to the drum pulley. Let's take a look at these two belts, old and new. Look at the numbers on the belt. These are the reference numbers of the belt manufacturers, you can see that the belts are with the same specification, but one has been on the machine for several years and the other is brand new. Now if I stretch both belts as much as I can, you can see that the new belt is very narrow compared to the belt that has been on the car for several years. Now, filling the old belt is quite simple. But the new belt, being narrower and tighter, makes this action much more difficult. Especially on a car like this where you have a small rear access panel. But we will show you a few ways to best fill one of these belts. Safety first, always turn off the machine before doing any work. The next thing I need to do is remove the top of the machine by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The top part is off, then I need to remove the rear access panel. With the rear panel removed, we can see the motor and the motor pulley that the belt is being pulled on. And here, where there is a bulge on the back of the machine, is the drum pulley. And as you can see, this panel cannot be removed. Let's look at the car from above. What I do is just wedge the back of the tank with a piece of wood and push the tank back. This is necessary to slightly pull it away from the back of the car body. We can clearly see the drum pulley here. Now, if you're sticking your hands in the washing machine, it's a good idea to wear a jumper to protect your hand, or it's a really good idea to slip an old football sock over your hand to prevent scratches or injury. The first method we use is to lower the belt behind the drum. Hook the belt onto the motor pulley, and then stretch it around the drum. To pull on the pulley, just use brute force. Put the belt back on the motor pulley. You can then thread your belt onto the drum pulley and use the spin. Use the pulley to stretch the belt and try to put the belt back in place. Now if you look at this side of the drum pulley you will see that the belt is breaking and I don't have enough strength in the small space to hold it in place so let me show you another technique. I will get a new belt from this machine . I use an old belt from a washing machine. Then I will lower and hook the belt over the drum pulley. Thread the belt back onto the motor pulley, now I can stretch our new belt using the old belt. And then, using the lever, thread the new belt around the drum pulley, helping to tension the old belt. Using your thumb to hold the belt on the pulley, put on the old belt and pull the belt around. As you can see, the belt is still trying to get off the pulley, so now I'm going to move on to technique number three. The third and final way is to use a cable tie. To do this, I will attach the drive belt to the drum pulley with a cable tie. So I put the belt on the drum pulley and what I'm going to do is kink on the tie. So I will be able to reach the end by tucking it behind the drum pulley and then tighten it tight so that it holds the belt very tightly in place. Then I can release the belt from the drum pulley. So he can reach the engine pulley at the bottom. Therefore, thread the belt onto the motor pulley again. Now all I have to do is thread the belt onto the drum pulley by turning it all the way. And then I can go in front and turn the drum to fully put the belt on. Now the belt is in place and all I have to do now is spin the drum a bit so I can cut off the cable tie. After removing the cable tie, I want to make sure the strap is in place. You can move the belt position off the worn part of the drum pulley. The drive belt on the motor pulley moves forward or backward using the grooves on the belt as needed. Now I can put back and top panel back in place. So, we have methods that are suitable for putting a tight drive belt on a washing machine. Remember, spare parts for all appliances in your home can be found on our website. Thank you for watching

Good day! In our article today, I propose to discuss such a topic as replacing the alternator belt.

With severe wear and breakdowns, the generator may simply stop working because its drive belt has failed. Do not forget that in some cases the fault lies not with the wear of the belt itself, but with the components of the entire assembly. For example, motorists are often faced with the need to replace the tensioner roller bearing. But some cars provide for the use of alternator belts without a tensioner.

In practice, changing the node is not difficult. It is much more important to notice problems in a timely manner so that a breakdown does not take you by surprise, at the most inopportune moment for this.

Check for wear and its signs

Before trying to change the node with your own hands, you need to make sure that it has really exhausted its resource, does not perform the functions assigned to it and needs to be replaced.

The most important sign of wear is the appearance of a characteristic whistle during the operation of the generator. This whistle can be heard by applying a suitable load to the generating equipment. In practice, this looks simple. You need to start the air conditioner or just turn on the high or low beam headlights. Next, the engine starts, and the gas pedal is pressed. If at this moment a suite appears from the engine compartment, the belt is loose.

The whistling and loosening of the tension does not yet indicate complete wear. In some cases, it is only slightly torn, but still suitable for further use.

The whistle does not act as a signal of a critical node malfunction. But this is a clear sign that the element will have to be changed soon.

When the device wears out and the tension is reduced, the generator continues to function. Let its efficiency decrease and the charge can be partially supplied, you can drive to a car service or your own garage. But as soon as you find out what the price of work in a service station is for such a procedure, you will probably want to personally understand the nuances of replacing the alternator belt. There is nothing complicated here. But get additional experience and save a solid part of your budget.

Much worse than whistling is constant noise from the generator. Moreover, it can appear under load and without an acting load from the electrically dependent equipment.

When replacement is required

As you already understand, there are several ways to diagnose problems associated with an alternator belt.

There are several basic check methods that allow you to get an answer about the current state of the node.

• The method of determining by ear. So you can hear whistling and constant noise. The first symptom is not fatal, but already talking about the poor condition of the belt. In the second case, everything is much more serious;
• visual inspection. When examining the condition of the belt, one can detect breaks, cracks, traces of scuffs, frayed edges, pulley displacement, threads that have appeared, oil stains formed on the belt surface, etc .;
• Simple logic and observation. Many motorists know that a low-quality belt was originally used in the generator unit. Don't expect long term work from him. Also, some cars have a sensor that monitors the state of the generator.

The belt can wear out due to natural causes during operation. But often problems arise from the tension mechanism. As a result, the belt itself suffers, as well as the components associated with it.

Here, the usual replacement is not enough. A more serious repair will be required with partial or complete replacement of generator parts.

deal with self-replacement such a node as a generator belt is not difficult. The owners of many cars took matters into their own hands.

Often there are tips from car owners themselves who talk about personal experience generator repair example:

• Renault Logan 1.6 8 valves;
• Lada Kalina;
• Lada Priora 16 valves with air conditioning;
• Ford Focus;
• VAZ 2110;
• Lada Grant;
• VAZ 2107;
• VAZ 2114;
• Mitsubishi Lancer 9;
• VAZ Classic;
• Daewoo Lanos;
• Chevrolet Aveo etc.

When replacing, be sure to purchase a part of the same type. Products come with tracks of different numbers. Having picked up a belt that does not match your generator, problems will arise during its installation and further operation.

If the car provides for the use of a poly V-belt, a wedge-shaped one is unlikely to fit. But this is a completely different issue that requires separate consideration.

Features of the replacement procedure

I strongly advise you to look into the operation and repair manual for your particular car. The regulations clearly indicate the scheme and give instructions on how to properly change the belt. Although the cost of the node is negligible, you are unlikely to want to buy a product and immediately spoil it.

But I can give some general advice and recommendations, which may be enough to properly understand the essence of replacing such a component of the generator unit.

• To remove the belt, it is required to reduce its degree of tension;
• Automobiles use various tensioning mechanisms or just a tensioner;
• In some cases, this is a kind of bolt, or an element of a semicircular shape;
• Before removing, be sure to write down or draw a diagram of the location of the belt. This is extremely important, since the new one must be installed in exactly the same way;
• When adjusting the tension with a bolt, you need to start turning it in the right direction;
• Each rotation of the device reduces the degree of tension;
• As a result, after several turns, the belt can be easily removed by hand;
• Carefully compare the dimensions, thickness and structure of the new and old belt. It is extremely important to use a part that exactly matches your car;
• Now the new belt is thrown over the generator;
• The tensioner is twisted by the tension mechanism in the opposite direction to removal.

Be sure to check the tension. In no case should the element dangle and hang down. But you can also pull it, so dose the applied force.

After completing the installation, be sure to start the engine and give the generator maximum load. To do this, turn on all the devices in the form of headlights, an audio system, an air conditioner, etc. If you feel a slight whistle, you simply did not reach the desired degree of tension.