Rear hub nut Lanos size. Self-replacement rear wheel bearing Daewoo Lanos.

The rear hub of the Chevrolet Lanos is an important part of the car. Its main task is to transfer torque from the crankshaft to the wheel. Brake discs are also attached to the hub. hub itself rear wheel Chevrolet Lanos breaks very rarely, since there is, in principle, nothing to break, but the rear hub bearing has to be changed quite often.

Chevrolet Lanos rear hub replacement

In order to replace the hub, you must first remove the wheel, then the cap. After that, we knock out the cotter pin and unscrew the hub nut. After removing the brake drum. you need to unscrew 4 more nuts that hold the hub. This is where the shoot ends.

When installing a new hub, be sure to lubricate all those places that were lubricated on the old one. As you can see, on a Chevrolet Lanos, you can quickly and independently remove the rear hub. To replace it, it is not necessary to go to the service station.

Chevrolet Lanos rear wheel bearing replacement

In order to change the bearing, we need:

1. Spanners. If it is possible to take a torque wrench from someone, this will be a huge plus!
2. A hammer.
3. Collar and chisel.
4. Screwdrivers.

Having obtained all the tools, you can start repairing! First you need to put the car in first gear, and put something in front of the front wheels to stop (bricks will do). Next, unscrew the wheel mounts and the hub nut.

Before installing new bearings, check the journal for surface wear, chips, and gouges. If there are such defects, you must either replace the trunnion or somehow repair it.

Now we take a new outer ring of a small bearing and install it in place of the old one. This should be done with a hammer and a spacer (preferably made of soft metal). It is ideal to use a wooden oak board for this. When it will press the rings and the bearings themselves, lubricate all parts. Finally, assemble everything in reverse order.

If you want to buy a Chevrolet Lanos rear hub bearing via the Internet, their number in the QWB 155C catalog.

Today we will talk about wheel bearings and how replace wheel bearing (rear) Daewoo Lanos with my own hands in case of its failure, but before that, I propose to figure out how to diagnose a bearing malfunction.

The most common symptoms:

• Excessive heating of the brake drum.
• Deaf knocks in the rear of the body while driving over bumps.

Getting started, you need to be 100% sure that the problem is really in the wheel bearing, and not in brake pads or a faulty drum, the symptoms are very similar.

For those who had a problem with a faulty drum, I suggest reading:

To check, do the following:

• Hang the wheel from the side from which knocks are heard or the drum heats up.
• Grasp the wheel and check if there is any play or not.

Having found a backlash during the rocking of the wheel, accompanied by dull knocks, an immediate wheel bearing replacement.

How to replace a Daewoo Lanos wheel bearing - step by step instructions

Rear hub bearing replacement is not possible without the following set of tools:

• balloon.
• Jack.
• Special torque wrench.
• Flat screwdriver.
• Litol.
• Mandrel for installing the outer rings of the bearing.

Now in order...

Remove the brake drum, for this:

1. Secure the machine with 1st gear wheel chocks.
2. Next, you need to break (loosen) the mounting bolts of the wheel to be removed, that is, on which the replacement will be made wheel bearing.
3. Jack up the back of the car.
4. Hang the wheel.
5. Install insurance under the machine (stops or racks) to eliminate the possibility of injury.

!!! Attention, work with only one jack without safety net - DANGEROUS!

1. Completely unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.
2. If there is dirt or rust, be sure to clean everything using a metal brush.
3. The protective cap must be removed from the hub.

9. Now unpin the castle nut by aligning the cotter pin and pulling it out of its seat.

10. Get a persistent washer of the bearing.

11. Remove the brake drum.

12. Using a screwdriver, remove the inner gland.

13. Remove the inner wheel bearing race.

14. Using a hammer, we knock out the outer rings of the outer and then the inner bearings.

15. Thoroughly clean, followed by rinsing and drying the surface to remove old grease and dirt.

1. Apply a light coat of clean grease to the bearing races.
2. Using a mandrel of the required diameter, it is necessary to press the outer rings into the brake drum by hitting it with a hammer.
3. Lubricant must also be applied to the cage of the inner roller bearing and the wheel trunnion (for example, "Litol").
4. Take the bearing and install it in the brake drum.
5. Using a drift and hammer again, press in the inner bearing seal.
6. At this stage, you can begin to install the brake drum.
7. It is necessary to "push" the same lubricant into the hub.
8. Install the outer bearing onto the trunnion and carefully tighten the hub nut.
9. Now the bearings need to be adjusted. Using a torque wrench, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 25 Nm.
10. Loosen the nut half a turn, then tighten again with a force of 1 N∙m.
11. Fasten the castellated nut.

I don’t see the point in describing the assembly, everything is done in reverse disassembly of the sequence.

Important! Sometimes when tightening the hub, the hole does not line up with the slot in the castle nut, in this case loosen the nut a little, tighten it NO NEED!

That's all for me, I hope you understand everything and the article was not written in vain. Daewoo Lanos wheel bearing replacement produced successfully, it remains to test the car on the road.

By car Chevrolet Lanos rear wheel bearing replacement, as well as their dismantling, are relevant when the drum is heated, or characteristic dull sounds occur in the body (rear suspension).

To replace, you need to purchase two p / w for 1 wheel. Chevrolet Lanos rear hub bearing number in accordance with GOST: the first is 7006, the second is 7703.

Rear hub bearing dimensions Lanos:

7006 (diameters: inner 29, outer 50.29);

7703 (diameters: inner 17.46, outer 39.87).

A new bearing for replacement should not have any damage, rust and dirt, it should be easy to sit in the cage.

Rear wheel bearing Chevrolet Lanos. Which one to choose for replacement?

For Chevrolet Lanos, you can choose the following manufacturers:

• AT products, with serial number AT 094-2008.
• The product is offered by serial number PR-2501-0944 and manufacturer Profit.
• The most reliable solution positions products number 06507, manufactured by Febi.
• As a budget option, you can choose the manufacturer CX, a product with serial number CX523.
• Replacing the Chevrolet Lanos wheel bearing can be made by the products of the Slovak FAG plant, the price of which is affordable for a potential buyer and of high quality.

Chevrolet Lanos rear hub bearing price (one) the average for manufacturers in 2016 is about 800 rubles.

Replacing the wheel bearing Lanos: diagnostics, chassis device

To be sure, it is carried out problem diagnosis, to do this, we raise the car on a jack, scroll and move each wheel in the axial direction with our hands in weight. A booming noise, as well as play, indicate a malfunction. Further setting is required vehicle on the jack for safety purposes, as well as access to the hub. After the jack is installed, you can begin to perform operations. The device of the rear chassis of the car can be seen in the diagram:

For repair, a common tool is used:

• Screwdriver Set;
• chisel, collar;
• hammer, for pressing clips;
• a set of wrenches, including, if possible, a torque wrench.

Replacing the rear hub bearing Lanos - sequence of execution

Chevrolet Lanos - Replacing the rear hub bearings: advice and recommendations from experts

It is worth canceling a few simple tips that will come in handy when replacing the Chevrolet Lanos rear hub bearing:

1. In the process of pressing the clip, do not hit the element hard, so as not to damage the surface and not get a crack. Otherwise, if the bearing is heavily "clogged" and "skewed", it is necessary to press it back on the other side of the hub.
2. Do not forget to check the heating of the hub after the trip, if it is heated, the fastening nut is loosened.
3. It is important to tighten the fixing bolts, return the nut responsible for tightening the handbrake to its original position. Be sure to check the "freedom" of rotation of the wheel after pressing new parts into the hub housing.
4. Check the tightness of the bearings themselves. Otherwise, the design of the clips may be deformed or destroyed, you will have to buy a new product.
5. Ensuring your own safety comes first. It is important to wear safety goggles and use gloves.

The cause of noise in the rear suspension of the car may be faulty rear wheel bearings. Checking if this is so will not be difficult. Enough, just lift each wheel in turn rear suspension and rotate it by hand. The booming noise and play in the wheel directly indicates that the time has come rear wheel bearing replacement. In our case, the process of replacing rear hub bearings on cars of the brand Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Zaz Lanos (Zaz Lanos), Zaz Chance. But in order to repair a car, you will need not only knowledge, but also a certain tool. Next, check the presence or absence of the tool according to the list below.

You will need: a screwdriver and a tubular wrench for “10”, pliers (pliers), a hammer, a slightly pointed metal rod (for knocking out the outer rings of the bearing), an open-end or box wrench for “24”, two mandrels for pressing bearings into the hub (mandrels are selected diameter of the outer rings - 39-40 mm and 49-50 mm, see the corresponding photos). So we decided on the tool, now let's go through the spare parts. When buying bearings, we look at their complete set. The package should contain - a pair of bearings, an oil seal (required), a cotter pin and some more, serious ones, manufacturers add a nut and grease. Speaking of lube! It will not be superfluous if you buy a lubricant for bearings - a tube or a 400 gram can of Litol 24 or its substitutes of imported origin (check with sellers). For one hub, 400 grams, of course, is a lot, but we are prudent people (suddenly the bearing will be covered on the second side), we take it with a small margin. Now let's move on to the very process of replacing the rear hub bearings on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Zaz Lanos (Zaz Chance), Zaz Chance.

First, we climb into the interior of the car, on backseat. We take out the ashtray (photo 1,2,3) and use a tubular wrench to “10” to unscrew the handbrake tension nut. After completing the first paragraph, we can safely dissolve wheel bolts, jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheel.

Using a screwdriver or a thin chisel, remove the protective cap (photo 4), remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut with a “24” key (photo 5).

Remove the brake drum. Then you can carefully remove the hub seal with a screwdriver, but since we have a new one, you can simply knock it out together with the bearing using a wrench. After that, you should clean the hub from the old grease and find special grooves through which we will knock out the bearing rings remaining in the hub (photo 6). Found? Knocked out? If so, then once again we clean the hub from dirt and old grease and get ready to press in new ones. bearings.

Using, prepared or selected along the way, mandrels of the required diameter (see photos 7 and 8), we press in the rings. Then we fill the hub with grease (photo 9), insert the inner bearing into the cage and carefully, using a hammer or as shown in photo 10 with a special mandrel, press in the oil seal.

We put the brake drum on the trunnion (previously it also needs to be cleaned of old grease) and insert the inner bearing into the cage, followed by the washer and tighten the hub nut. But do not splint and do not put on a protective cap! Since a very important point follows - adjusting the rear hub bearings on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Zaz Lanos (Zaz Chance), Zaz Chance. In order to properly adjust the tightening of the bearings, it is necessary to put on the wheel and then tighten the hub nut to the stop (with a force of no more than 30 Nm) so that the bearings “sit down” in their places. Then we unscrew the nut half a turn and, turning the wheel by hand, tighten the nut a little. After that, the wheel should rotate freely, but with the complete absence of play (we take the top and bottom of the wheel and check for rolling). And the final point. We insert the cotter pin (if the hole does not match the teeth, then you can tighten the nut a little more), bend its ends and insert the protective cap into the hub.

Op! And rear wheel bearings replaced ;) . Yes! Do not forget to tighten the wheel bolts, return the handbrake tension nut to its original position and reinstall the ashtray ... Now that's it.

When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!

Somehow, before leaving Ulyanovsk for Samara, on business matters, he kicked the wheels (sometimes it turns out to be a useful thing). There was a slight play and a knock in the rear. Upon his return, he asked a friend what it could be, to which he unequivocally answered that these were bearings and they needed to be replaced, at that time the mileage was 75,850 km. I went to a spare parts store that sells "original" spare parts for Daewoo, Chevrolet and ZAZ, which is located on Korunkova. I took 2 sets of 500 rubles each and, on the advice of the seller, went to the service station, which is located on Efremov 80, supposedly they only deal with Lanos. I called, signed up, the next day (Saturday) I arrived in the morning, drove to the lift. The master, a young boy, about 26 years old, having removed the drum, issued a verdict that he would still live and that he could only get by with a tightening, to which I waved his hand and said - we are changing. Everything came off great, it was pressed back in, the left side was assembled, and the hub nut was torn off on the right. I had to take a taxi to the store for a new one. He came back, gave it back, he tinkered for a long time, but still he turned it around, stuck the wheel in, lowered the lift, because. the leadership was washed off early, he took 2000 rubles from me. (1600 - replacement, 300 - suspension diagnostics), change 100 rubles. did not have. Let me go with God. I traveled for several days and then they buzzed on you. I called the service station, they said that if possible I stopped by and they will determine the cause. Of course, there was no time with my work schedule, and then, when I got tired of it and the hum grew, I called the service station again, they told me to come and they would just pull them up. He took time off from work and went to the same mechanics. Andrey is a master, he was very glad to see me again (Very friendly). I went up to their office, asked how long I should wait, because. lift was busy. “Now we’ll do everything, drive into the pit,” their manager told me and I was surprised and went to drive into boxing. Having removed the cap and cotter pin from the left, he took the key and twisted it 90-120 degrees and assembled it back. On the right side, the cotter pin stubbornly did not want to get out of the hole and climb back in the same way. having done the operation again on the right side, he collected everything and said that everything was in order. I asked in surprise if it was necessary to raise the car and turn the wheels. "No, it's all right, go" and I left. The next morning on the way to work, flying at 120 km / h on the mountain of May, my rear right wheel wedges, aligning the direction of movement and without hitting anyone, I rebuild to the side of the road, remove the cap, I see that the grease just spat out of the hub, splashing all over the disk and inside surface of the calp. The hub nut was deformed and stuck to the washer. I called the service station, reported the problem, called a tow truck and we flooded my swallow for 1300 rubles. on Efremov. There he showed a nut and a gouged bearing race. For an hour while I was there, they still did not remove the brake drum, breaking off its edges with a puller. I left for work. After lunch, they told me that I had a wear on the hub axle, it turned blue and the bearing got stuck, so it also needs to be changed. In the evening he came for his swallow. The guys flatly not admitting their guilt showed how they know how to use a torque wrench, tightening the nut with me and turning the wheel. At my request, they raised the left wheel and turned it around. I left the service station, paying half the cost of repairs and the full cost of spare parts, I heard a rattle in my soul and in the left brake drum. Planted Andrey (Master) for a ride, he said that these are pads, they will grind. Today I went to work again and heard a rumble from behind. Now I think, go back to them, to the officials, or look for a normal service further.
Yes, by the way, when they put new bearings for the first time, they didn’t put this part, marked in the photo with a question. For what it is, the master did not guess.