Front strut bearing VAZ 2110.  How to replace the thrust bearing and check the struts?

We have already talked, however, it is not eternal. If you believe the masters at the service station, it needs to be changed along with the racks - that's right! But there is not always money for shock absorbers, and many do not even remember such a thing as a “support” and do not know why it is needed. In general, there is a replacement without them! But after a short mileage, problems can begin ...

To begin with, I’ll say - guys, the “opornik” is just a bearing and it is far from eternal. It is affected by very large loads, because it must keep the shock absorber drain. Of course, this part is strong enough, it works for many thousands of kilometers. But our roads and big runs ruin it. Therefore, it is advisable to change them with each replacement of shock absorber struts - this is normal practice.

Main reasons for failure

Before we talk about replacement, I propose to talk about the reasons why it fails. There are only two main directions here, this is a mechanical effect and a time factor.

• Mechanical impact - as you probably guessed - these are broken roads, potholes and pits. The rack hits the thrust bearing with force, thereby destroying it. By the way, he himself was a witness when he broke down already at 45,000 kilometers.

• Time factor - here the reasons are different, the first is, of course, the fatigue of the metal and plastic parts themselves from time and high mileage, that is, wear and tear. The second is water, dust, dirt - the whole thing gets into the bearing and destroys it. For example, from water, it begins to rust and collapses. The situation is aggravated by the fact that it has practically no protective cases.

In general, the third is not given here, either you will break it, or rust will devour it, the result is one - destruction.

How to understand that the thrust bearing has collapsed?

Very simply, any bearing in case of failure will either vibrate or creak - buzz (crunch), or it will simply jam.

Therefore, if you notice that when you turn the steering wheel, you get some strange sounds, such as a crunch or a creak, then the reason is probably in the “support”. Also, the steering wheel will become much heavier.

Self-diagnosis:

• You need an assistant, we put him behind the wheel, turn off the engine.
• Open the hood and remove the cap from the top.
• We put our hand on the “support” and ask your friend to turn the steering wheel to the right and left, not necessarily strongly, perhaps small movements (the steering wheel is half a turn). There should be no squeaks and crunch, as well as no beating.

• Without releasing your hand from the bearing, ask a friend to come out and rock the car from side to side. If the stance begins to walk (beat) in the “support”, then there is a high probability that it is out of order.

AT service stations they usually check by “buildup”, the beat cannot be confused with anything, some even click.

Is it possible to travel with a non-working person?

NO, guys - you can’t, it can corny jam, and at speed you just won’t turn the steering wheel! Here is your accident. IN my practice, it was broken (torn) - that is, the drain rod passed through it upwards - it pierced the hood through and through! You think it’s not realistic yet how real, the weight of the car is large, and the structure is broken.

So much for savings, a broken hood is very difficult to repair, most likely you will change it. It is better to change the bearings on time, and they do not cost global money! Originals from 600 to 2000 rubles, depending on the brand and class of car. SUVs can be a little more expensive.

How to remove and replace with your own hands, is it possible from above?

Approached the most interesting - how to remove? You know, here I immediately want to answer all those who are trying to change it from above - GUYS, this is unrealistic! It is locked by the car body (if you want the front "glasses" of the racks), it is in them that it rests and is removed - it is unrealistic to replace it from above, only from below.

Well, let's go, I will tell you in detail on the points:

• First you need to understand that we need to remove the front drain completely. To do this, raise the car, the front. We remove the wheel.
• We need to disconnect all auxiliary mounts from the strut, this can be a caliper mount, stabilizer strut mount, ABS sensor mount and brake hoses.

• From the upper part (from under the hood) we unscrew the three nuts - we pull out the shock absorber strut.

• Now we need to “pull” the spring, because it often rests against the bearing itself, that is, it is the upper thrust cup.

• Then we need to unscrew the nut from the strut (the one that secures the bearing and shock absorber rod). This is a problem, because if you turn the nut, then it will rotate with the stem. For such work, a special key is needed, or the head and bit are usually used T Turn the head with a gas key, and fix the bit with a holder.

• After that, the thrust bearing will be removed, now you can replace it. Then we repeat the process in reverse order.

Probably, the instruction is a little incomprehensible, so we are watching the video version.

This is how to remove and replace the “support”, I think I explained it in an accessible way. Read our AUTOBLOG, there will be many more useful articles and videos.

The front support legs, as well as the support bearings, are constantly subjected to severe stress, especially when driving on rough roads or rough terrain. Timely replacement of thrust bearings helps prevent complete failure of the entire undercarriage, and the need for its overhaul.

As you know, faulty chassis is fraught with loss of control, therefore, there is a threat to the safety of the life of the driver and other road users.

In this article, I will talk about how to replace the front strut support bearing on a VAZ 2110 with their own hands without the need for wheel alignment. The support bearing will be replaced without loosening the breakaway bolts, which will allow us to avoid the need to adjust the alignment.

Before you replace the VAZ 2110 thrust bearing, you need to take care of the tools. To do this job you will need:

1. Coupling for springs, a special tool for unscrewing the nuts of the racks.
2. Steering tip puller.
3. Standard set of keys.
4. Jack, hammer, crowbar.
5. Assistant (optional).
6. New support bearing.

Replacing the thrust bearing of the front strut VAZ 2110 - step by step instructions

1. First of all, you need to remove the hub cap and unlock the CV joint nut.

2. Ask an assistant to press the brake pedal, and at this time, use a head or a wrench to break the nut.

4. To unscrew the nut of the steering tip, it must be unpinned. Using a hammer and pry bar, press out the pin.

5. Disconnect to do this, unscrew the 2 mounting bolts.

6. Remove the brake hose by pulling it out of the rack clamp.

7. Next, unscrew the 2 caliper bolts, after unlocking the washer petals. Take the caliper to the side so that it does not interfere with the work and hang it on a wire, it must not hang on the brake hose.

8. For ease of use with the strut removed, loosen the strut nut, but do not unscrew it completely. After that, unscrew the 3 nuts of the support.

9. Then unscrew the CV joint nut. Remove the rack while pulling the CV joint from the slots.

10. Use the zip ties to compress the spring. Install the tie on the coils and evenly tighten each side with a wrench. When the spring is compressed, you can unscrew the support bearing.

11. Now you can replace thrust bearing To do this, remove the old prop and install a new thrust bearing in its place.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Replacing the support bearing VAZ 2110- not the easiest job, but with the right approach and "smooth hands" it can be done at home in a few hours.

Watch the video replacing the support bearing VAZ 2110 with your own hands:

Replacing a support bearing is a rather complicated process and has its own nuances, so you should familiarize yourself with its device and types. The thrust bearing is one of the most important parts of every vehicle. It is he who provides unhindered turns.

To check it, just raise the car and turn the wheels manually. This should happen smoothly, without getting stuck, if there is a hydraulic booster, then you should start the engine, then turn the steering wheel, and at this time the second assistant will listen in the wheel area.

Since it consists of several elements, there can be several types of malfunctions:

• Increased crunch when cornering.
• Biting and tapping during maneuvers.
• Destruction of the entire support node and auxiliary elements.

Bearings can be of two types according to the principle of operation:

• rolling;
• slip.

Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages. Sliding devices are two steel clips into which bronze bushings are pressed. A prerequisite for using this type is the constant presence of an abundant amount of lubricant and cleanliness from dirt. These bearings were first installed on NissanQashqai cars. They made it possible to increase the trouble-free service life from an average of 100 thousand km to 200.

The first type, rolling, is classic and is used in all other cars, including previous ones. Nissan models. But their effective period can be from 30 thousand, as a rule, cars of the brand Opel, Skoda Octavia, and up to 100 thousand km for Audi 100, Chevrolet Lacetti.

The service life of pillow block bearings depends on the intensity of the ride and the conditions in which they operate.

As a rule, with constantly high humidity, driving through puddles simply leads to lubrication being washed out and sand getting inside. And this can lead not only to squeaks and knocks, but to the destruction of the entire clip.

Types

Rolling bearings can also be of several types according to their design. Based on it, one can judge the durability and endurance:

1. With integrated rings, both outer and inner. Design features of this type is the presence of mounting holes directly in the cage. Therefore, its installation does not require additional clamping bars and plates. Another advantage of these bearings is that they are equipped with spacers between the rings, and this allows you to avoid any adjustments.
2. With separate outer rings, providing rotation of the inner ones. In them, the outer ring can be removed separately, and the inner one is connected to the body. This type is used where unreliability is required, but movement accuracy. Checking them is quite simple because when they fail, they often collapse and create a characteristic sound when cornering.
3. With separable inner rings to ensure rotation of the outer. It is used in the same place as the previous model.
4. Single-separated. The principle is the same as the previous ones. You can check this type in the same ways as described above.

Replacement

Replacing the support bearing on all cars is almost the same and differs only in some design versions of the machine itself. On brands, for example, Golf 1.2, the steering lever is located at the bottom of the rack, and on others, for example, OpelCadet, VAZ 2110 and others, it is located on top of the rack. This indicates the same upper position of the steering rack. In addition, the differences may be in the limited space, for example, DaewooNexia.

How to change the thrust bearing? Consider an example on a car Ford Mondeo, bearing replacement consists of the following steps:

1. In order to get started, you need to install the car on hand brake and lean on reliable stands.
2. After securing secure installation Both wheels must be removed from the machine. The replacement of paired spare parts in the chassis of the car should be completely, because due to the development of one, the second will also be subject to increased wear.
3. Be sure to pre-treat all connections with WD-40 after cleaning them from dirt before starting to unwind. This will significantly increase the service life of all elements.
4. Next, using a spanner wrench of 15 or 18, it is necessary to loosen the clamping nut of the rack in the glass. On other car brands, you may need a 22 socket and a 6 hex.
5. At the next stage of replacement, you will need to unscrew the upper tip of the stabilizer strut. To do this, you need a spanner wrench and a hex key.
6. Be sure to remove the brake hose and wiring to the sensor from the clamps on the strut housing.
7. Next, you will need to completely unscrew the bolt securing the rack to the swing arm.
8. With a 13 socket wrench, you need to unscrew the drive mounting bolt on the hub.
9. The next step will require the help of an outsider. He should press on the lever, and in the meantime, with the help of a mount, inserting it into the section of the rack mounting clamp, it is necessary to push its halves apart. The hub drive arm should safely disengage from the strut. Replacing a bearing with a Mondeo precisely because of this stage is the causal reason for many people to go to service centers. When assembling, keep in mind that it has something like a cotter pin, which should fit into the cut of the clamp.
10. Next, you need to unscrew the three bolts securing the rack to the glass, they hold the thrust bearing.
11. At this stage, its own replacement itself begins. To do this, you will need to tighten the spring using a special tool.
12. Using a socket and a hexagon, it is necessary to unscrew the clamping nut of the bearing itself.
13. In the disassembled state, it is removed from the housing of the support mechanism with a screwdriver.
14. When installing the bearing, its rotary part must be rotated relative to the protrusion on the stationary part by an angle of 60. This measure is mandatory and is decisive in the operation and distribution of loads on it. You can check the angle with a protractor.
15. Assemble all units and mechanisms in the reverse order. There is no need to do alignment, because the drive lever from the hub was not unscrewed. After installing all the parts, it is necessary to check the bearing for runout. To do this, on weight, it is enough to pull the rack with strong jerks.