Front wheel hub - what you need to know about the device. Front wheel hub - what you need to know about the device

Chassis failure vehicle always poses a danger. A professional motorist knows that it is impossible to travel in such a car, and all measures should be taken to eliminate malfunctions.
This also applies to the front hub of the car, which plays a very important role in the design of the vehicle. On the VAZ 2110, the replacement of the front hub can be carried out due to the appearance of strong noise or knocks while driving.
Also, in many cases, the failure of the hub is characterized by loosening the wheel, because of this, the car on the road can “jump”, move unevenly or lead to the side. When the first symptoms of a malfunction appear, the replacement of the front hub of the VAZ 2110 should be carried out immediately.

Hub replacement is a big deal

If no action is taken, then very sad consequences are possible, because a faulty hub cannot hold the bolts that fix the wheels of the car. Therefore, at high speed, the wheel can simply fly off.

Note. Replacing the hub on a VAZ 2110 is quite difficult. But, having patience and certain knowledge, this process does not imply anything terrible and impossible.

Removing the old hub

To perform the work, you will need the following tools:

• two wrenches "17";
• universal wrench designed to remove the wheel;
• set of heads;
• wrench "22";
• ball bearing puller;
• jack.

Starting work, first of all, a support is installed under the car. Also, shoes are installed under the wheels of the vehicle for stability.
So:

• First of all, it is removed.

Note. If the car has anti-lock system you need to remove the ABS sensor from the front wheel.

• Using a drift or screwdriver, the protective cap is removed, which is located in the center of the wheel hub.

Note. In cases where the protective cap is damaged, it must be replaced.

• Then, if there is a spring, it is removed from the hub axis.

• After that, the clamping bolt is loosened, which fixes the hub fastening nut from unscrewing, then the nut is unscrewed and removed from the hub axis. If there is a thrust washer, then it must also be removed.
• The front wheel hub is removed from the steering knuckle.

Note. In the event that the hub cannot be removed, you will have to use a puller.

• If the bearing inner ring remains on the steering knuckle, then it is removed from the hub axle using a puller, after which the hub sealing ring is removed.
• Check the condition of the steering knuckle. If necessary, it must be replaced.

Before installing a new spare part, several procedures will be required to ensure that the part lasts a long time.
For this:

• Remove the inner ring of the outer bearing from the hub.
• Then, the sealing ring is removed from the back of the hub and the inner ring of the inner one is removed.

• The hub is mounted on an appropriate mandrel and the inner ring of the outer bearing is knocked out with a drift and a hammer.

Note. Do not distort the ring while doing this, as the bearing housing in the hub can be damaged.

• After that, the hub is turned over and the outer ring of the inner bearing is knocked out.

Installing a new hub

So:

• Using sandpaper, the hub is cleaned of grease and dirt, the burrs on the hub are polished. The condition of the hub is checked for mechanical damage, cracks and wear.
  If defects are found, then the hubs will have to be changed.

Note. In VAZ 2110 vehicles with an anti-lock braking system, the condition of the sensor gear rotor is checked.

• A new hub is taken. Before assembly, a thin layer of grease is applied to the outer ring of the bearing, as well as to the mating surface of the hub.
  The raceways of the inner ring are also lubricated.
• Then the new hub is installed on the mandrel.

• The outer ring of the inner bearing is installed in the hub. With the help of a tubular mandrel, which rests on the outer ring of the bearing and a press, the bearing ring is pressed into the hub until it stops.

Note. During the pressing process, the bearing ring should also not be warped.

• After that, the hub is turned over and in the same way the outer ring of the outer bearing is pressed into the hub.
• The inner race of the inner bearing is installed. The sealing ring is installed on the back of the hub with the working edges to the bearing. The bearings are filled with grease, which makes up two-thirds of the total grease, then the inner ring of the outer bearing is installed.

Only after the above procedures can the hub be installed in its rightful place:

• First, a thin layer of grease is applied to the back of the hub O-ring and the hub is installed onto the steering knuckle.
• A thrust washer is installed and a nut is screwed on, which fixes the hub.
• The hub fixing nut is screwed, the bearing inner rings are pressed onto the steering knuckle pin.
• After the hub is installed, the axial play of the hub bearing is adjusted.
• After the adjustment is completed, the clamping bolt is tightened, which fixes the fastening nut from unscrewing.
• Then a spring is installed on the pivot of the steering knuckle.
• A protective cap with grease is installed on the hub.
• After that, the brake disc is installed and, if there is an anti-lock system, the sensor is installed.

The process of replacing the front wheel hub does not take much time, does not require special experience. It is enough just to study the design of the hub, watch the corresponding video and photo materials, read the necessary manuals for its removal, replacement, installation, and you can do the procedure yourself.
Step by step instructions for self replacement will not only save money, but also protect the family budget from unforeseen expenses (after all, the price for services of this kind in auto repair shops is high).

Replacing the VAZ 2106 hub is quite rare, since the part lasts a long time, at least 150 thousand km. main reason, on which the replacement operation is performed, wear of the bearing seats, as a result of which the holders of the latter begin to scroll. It is possible to determine the malfunction only when removing the hub and removing the bearing races. If they scroll in their seats, then after removing the lubricant, clear marks will be visible on the inner surface.

A sign of wear on the hub bearings is a hum and vibration from one of the front wheels. To accurately determine the origin of the humming sound, the car is jacked up and the wheel is rotated by hand in different sides. If a loud noise is heard at the same time, then the bearings need to be replaced. The service life of these parts is on average 40-50 thousand km. Dismantling this assembly on a VAZ 2106 car, removing old parts and installing new ones is a simple task and is accessible to every motorist.

Assembly preparation and disassembly

Front rolling bearings - roller, cone type, consisting of two parts: external and internal. Products good quality are sold complete with the necessary amount of grease and two clamp nuts. The nuts differ in their threads, on one it is left-handed, on the other - right-handed, the first will fit the axis of the right pin, the second - to the left.

The manufacturer does not know which of the wheels will be replaced, so he completes the product with both nuts. Additionally, you need to purchase an oil seal, which is located at the rear of the hub and does not allow grease to flow out. You can work on level ground, fixing the car with a handbrake so that it does not roll away.

Before you raise the car with a jack, you need to pull out the metal boot that covers the hub nut and loosen the latter with a 27 mm wrench. Then the wheel bolts are loosened, the car is jacked up and the wheel is removed. The next step is to remove the brake caliper, which is attached to the trunnion with 2 bolts, they need to be unscrewed, the part removed and pushed aside.

Now you can completely unscrew the nut, pull out the washer and remove the hub from the trunnion axis with your hands. After that, you need to remove the old grease from all parts, it contains metal chips.

Installation and adjustment of new parts

The insides of the outer bearing are removed, the old grease is removed from the opened hole. To get the insides of the second part, you will need to pull out the gland by prying it with a mounting spatula or a powerful flat screwdriver. It is recommended to wash the inner surface of the hub together with the clips remaining in it with gasoline or diesel fuel. The sequence of further work.

1. Putting the hub on 2 wooden boards, with inside attach a punch or other metal rod with a pointed end to the clip. Lightly hitting with a hammer, knock out the part out. In the process, the punch must be moved so that the clip comes out evenly. Turn the hub over and do the same operation on the other side.
2. Now you need to study the surface condition of the hub seats. If traces of turning the clips are visible, you should think about replacing it. It is possible to somewhat extend the "life" of the hub, for this they use the old grandfather method. Small notches should be made on the surface of the seats with a core or chisel. After pressing the clips, they will sit tightly on these irregularities and will not turn for some time.

Hub diagram:
1. Outer ring cage with rollers and inner ring 2. Outer bearing outer race 3. Hub 4. Inner bearing outer race 5. Inner bearing cage with rollers and inner ring 6. Oil seal

1. Cover new clips with a thin layer of thick grease, after which one of them should be inserted into the hole without distortions. From above, set the old part of the same size and with light blows of the hammer flatly press the clip into seat. Repeat the operation on the other side of the hub.
2. After carefully lubricating the rollers, insert the bearing into the pressed cage. You need to start from the inside of the hub. Then install the gland in the same way as described in paragraph 3. Carefully lubricate and insert the second bearing, coat both parts liberally with grease. Wipe off both working surfaces of the brake disc from grease and put the hub on the axle of the trunnion. Tighten the fastening nut, slightly tighten it with a wrench.

Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order, after its completion, the front hub of the VAZ 2106 is tightened with a nut with little effort. You can check the correctness of the adjustment by pulling the suspended wheel with your hands on its upper and lower parts.

In this case, a small play should be felt, the bearing must not be tightened “tightly”. After tightening, the nut must be hammered with the sharp part of the hammer, pointing it on the side of the nut opposite the groove in the axis of the trunnion. By hitting it with a second hammer, a recess is made that does not allow the nut to spin on its own.

When replacing bearings or the entire hub, all internal surfaces should be filled with the grease that comes with the kit, it should be used completely.

Of course, not only comfortable driving, but also the safety of the driver, passengers and other road users depends on the technical condition of the details of the car's running. The most important element in the design of the chassis of any car is the front wheel hub. This node performs a fairly large set of functions. In the event of a breakdown, the car cannot move.

Every motorist is obliged to regularly check the condition of the hubs, carry out Maintenance, timely contact the service to eliminate even the most minor deviations from the norm. Accordingly, in order to control, you need to know what to control. Actually, this is the answer to the puzzled question of many modern car owners: why do I need to know the structure of the wheel hubs?

What are front wheel hubs used for?

It does not require special knowledge in the design of cars to understand that the purpose of any hub is to provide the ability to rotate the wheel, provided that it is securely fastened to the axle (half shaft). A wheel disk is screwed onto the hub, and it itself has a bearing (or a pair of bearings) due to which it rotates.

Front wheel hub functions:

• So, the main task that the front wheel hubs must perform is a reliable movable connection and the axle shaft of the steering knuckle.
• Ensuring the possibility of braking is the second function of the part. Safe driving is possible only if there is a reliable brake system. or the drum is also attached to the front wheel hub.
• The front hub is the most important element for front-wheel drive vehicles, since rotational motion is transmitted to the wheel from the axle shaft (constant velocity joints) through it. To do this, the inner hole has slots into which the end of the axle shaft enters. Thus, the third task of the hub is to enable the car to move if the drive falls on the front wheels.

A modern car is a whole system of electronic sensors that allow you to continuously receive a lot of information and ensure safe driving and driving. Hubs also play their role in this process. In particular, they install sensors that ensure the operation of anti-lock, anti-slip and some other systems.

How is the front wheel hub arranged?

Oddly enough, but with such a rich functionality, the hub has a fairly simple device. The main parts of the knot are:

• hub body;
• wheel studs;
• sensors.

The body of the hubs is a solid alloy part that has been turned. The hub should be considered as a single complex with studs and bearings, since often, as a rule, for the bulk of manufacturers, they are inseparable from each other and change only as a set. In this way, manufacturers ensure maximum safety and reliability of this node. running system car.

Hub failures and methods for their elimination

Determining a front wheel hub failure is quite simple. The only part that is subject to active wear is the bearing. Having suspended the wheel on the jack, it is necessary to pull it with both hands in different planes. The appearance of play indicates the need for repair.

If the hub has a pair of tapered bearings, as, for example, on classic VAZ cars, then you can try to adjust the backlash using the hub nut. In such hubs, with maximum wear, the bearings are simply replaced with new ones. Foreign-made cars and domestic novelties may have hubs with bearings that cannot be removed. In this case, the entire hub assembly is changed.

A wheel is attached to the rear hub of the VAZ-2108 with four bolts. There is also a brake drum with which the car stops. The hub itself fails very rarely, usually it is changed when the inner surface or thread on which the wheel mounting bolts are screwed is destroyed.

It is much more common to remove the hub to replace the bearing. This is the most vulnerable element of the structure. Riding with a broken bearing will not bring much pleasure, as there will be extraneous vibration, noise, which increases with speed and cornering.

How to check a wheel bearing

If the bearing of the rear hub of the VAZ-2108 breaks down, you will hear a characteristic howl coming from the side of the trunk. Try to listen to which direction the sound is coming from. This will allow you to reduce the time to find a failed bearing. To make a diagnosis, you need to lift the wheel, and then rotate it with your hands.

If the bearing is in good condition, then there will be no noise. The wheel should rotate without jamming. But if the bearing is defective, then there will be a loud noise, as well as a metallic sound, as if the balls inside the bearing are rolling. How louder noise, the more wear on the wheel bearing. It is advisable to replace both sides at once, this will improve the efficiency of the repair.

What tools are required

Before replacing the VAZ-2108 rear hub bearing, you will need the following tool:

1. Head on "30" and a knob, as well as a piece of pipe. You can even use a spanner wrench, but it must be strongly bent to make it easier to install into the hub hole on the nut.
2. Center punch or thin chisel. It is advisable to sharpen the chisel in advance. This tool is needed to straighten a jammed edge on a nut.
3. It is desirable to have a three-legged and two-legged pullers. The first is necessary in order to dismantle the wheel hub, and the second to remove the inner bearing race.
4. Pliers for extracting and installing retaining rings.
5. It is advisable to have a puller on hand to remove and install the bearing in the hub.
6. You will also need any type of keys for "12", "13", "14".
7. You can not do without a hammer and wooden spacers.

Be sure to get a good bearing, it is advisable to also buy a nut. The old one is not recommended. You can purchase a complete VAZ-2108 rear hub, this will greatly facilitate the repair, but it will hit your wallet hard.

Bearing specifications

The catalog number of the product is 256706, it has the following characteristics:

1. Diameter of an internal clip - 30 mm.
2. Diameter of an external clip - 60 mm.
3. Weight - 400 gr.
4. Bearing width - 37 mm.
5. Inside there are 28 balls with a diameter of 9.525 mm.
6. Dynamic load capacity not less than 30.1 kN.
7. Static load capacity 25.9 kN.
8. The bearing is operating normally at 6500 rpm.

There are only four manufacturers of these products in Russia:

1. JSC "SPZ" (Saratov). Produces the highest quality and most durable bearings. The cost is quite low.
2. GPZ-23 (Vologda). It produces very good elements, which are slightly inferior to those from Saratov (indicated by the abbreviation VBF).
3. Samara SPZ-4. It does not differ in product quality, but the cost is very low.
4. GPZ-20 in Kursk. The plant was engaged in the production of high-quality products; at present, only copies of previous years of production can be found on the shelves.

Preparation for repair

All work must be carried out on a viewing hole or overpass. But if you do not have such amenities, you will have to hang out the back of the car so that it is above the ground. The order of the preparatory work:

1. Park the vehicle on level ground.
2. Place chocks under the front wheels.
3. Engage first gear.
4. Loosen the nut that tightens the drive hand brake(not necessary).

After that, you need to loosen the mounting bolts rear wheel where repairs are being made. It is also desirable to open the nut on the hub, and then rip it off with the key to “30”. After that, you can hang out the side of the car to make further repairs.

Removing the hub

To remove the rear wheel hub of the VAZ-2108, you will need to perform a few simple manipulations:

1. Completely unscrew the wheel bolts.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Unscrew the nut that is on the hub.
4. Using a wrench to "12", unscrew the studs that secure the brake drum to the wheel hub.
5. Place these studs in adjacent holes and screw them evenly. So you can move the brake drum from its place. If this does not help, it is necessary to carefully knock the drum out of its place with a hammer and a wooden spacer.
6. Use long bolts, they need to be screwed into two opposite holes on the hub. It is necessary to twist them until the hub begins to move out of its place. You can also use a three-arm puller for this purpose. The last resort is setting reverse side wheel and jerking it with his hands.
7. Sometimes the inner race of the bearing remains on the axle. It needs to be removed. To do this, first, with the help of a chisel, you need to slightly move this ring on the axis, and then install a puller with two paws. Be sure to check that there is no damage to the axle after dismantling. Otherwise, clean the metal with a fine file.

This completes the dismantling of the hub, it is in your hands, and you can replace the bearing. The dimensions of the rear hub of the VAZ-2108 are the same as those of similar models, which were produced under the name "Samara" and "Samara-2".

How to remove the bearing

The most interesting thing is ahead - you need to remove the bearing from the hub. To do this, follow these steps:

1. With the help of pliers, it is necessary to remove the retaining rings. If you do not have such a tool, then you can use a thin screwdriver or an awl.
2. It is advisable to use a special puller to remove the bearing. It is installed on the element over the entire area, evenly when the nut is tightened, the bearing is squeezed out. But if there is no such tool, you can use the outer race from the old bearing. Applying even blows, remove the element from the seat.

The dimensions of the rear hub bearing VAZ-2108 are slightly smaller than those of the classic series cars. But this does not mean that they are very weak. If the bearing is installed correctly, it will last a long time.

Installing a new bearing

Before installing a new element, it is necessary to inspect the entire internal surface. It must be free of scratches and damage. To make the installation a little easier, you can put the new bearing in the freezer for several hours, and warm up the hub. But pay attention to the fact that you can not heat up to a very high temperature.

Otherwise, when installing a new bearing, its seals will melt, which will significantly reduce the life of the element. The bearing must be pressed in using a puller or use a clip from the old element. Be sure to lock the bearing in place with the circlips, making sure they fit into their grooves.

final assembly

To assemble, follow these steps:

1. Install the hub on the axle.
2. Put on the washer and tighten the nut by hand.
3. Install the brake drum and tighten the studs.
4. Put the wheel on and lower the car.
5. Tighten all threaded connections.
6. Screw the nut onto the hub.

The assembly of the entire node occurs in the reverse order. The hub nut must be tightened with a torque of about 200 Nm.

Willy-nilly, the domestic manufacturer has to adapt to European standards. And this is very cool, because in the regime of Soviet technical isolation, we would still use obsolete solutions. Such a seemingly trifle as a front hub bearing, but with the transition to the European HUB system (closed roller or ball maintenance-free bearing), the part resource has almost tripled. Even if you take into account the costs of local production.

Which wheel bearings are better to buy on the VAZ-2110

Front hub bearing 2108-3103020-01.

Western European engineers took an active part in the development of the VAZ 2108. That is why the top ten got the most advanced solutions at that time from the front-wheel drive first-born VAZ. Including the front wheel bearing. Domestic manufacturers have always been proud of their bearings, but time has shown that out of a huge number of plants, only five turned out to be competitive in modern conditions. And it was the hub "Hubov" bearing that brought them to the leaders of the industry.

Articles

Ten roller wheel bearing has part numbers 2108-3103020-01 and 2108-3103020-02 , its dimensions 34x64x37 mm .

This part is supplied to the conveyor by the Lada-Image enterprise. The resource of the native bearing is very mediocre and, of course, it depends on the operating conditions - from 30 to 45 thousand mileage.

"Needle" test

When replacing, you can "needle" test : we take new and old bearings, try to cut the edge with a needle file. A good clip will not succumb to any , the file will simply glide over the surface without leaving marks. Cheap domestic bearings are made in violation of technology and therefore the needle file leaves noticeable traces on the test area - the metal is raw, and, therefore, such bearings pass before the appearance of play or even before destruction is not at all long.

Quality and verification

This is lyrics, and now we go to the store and choose a quality item. We ask Chinese handicraftsmen not to worry, we pay attention first to domestic factories. Their bearings are cheaper, and you have to choose from the following list:

• The 23rd Vologda GPP is now called VBF ;
• The 3rd GPP from Saratov bears the name SPZ ;
• 10th GPZ(Rostov) did not change the name;
• VPZ 15- this is the Volga plant;
• The 9th GPP from Samara turned into a SVZ-Group plant.

Marking

When choosing, you need to pay attention to the marking: a certified bearing will be marked only according to the European standard (not GPZ-15, but VPZ, for example).

Prices

The Vologda bearing will cost about five hundred rubles.

The price of domestic parts can range from 500 to 700 rubles apiece. Imported counterparts are more expensive, but there are other quality standards, if you do not take into account fraternal China:

• German bearing LGR with catalog numberLGR-4703, order price 700 rubles, excellent quality, if not fake;
• Italian Marel ( 2108-3103020M) with order price 750 rubles, high quality and durable, ESSO grease is guaranteed;
• per 800 rubles you can buy a Sachs wheel bearing with a number 3464 0037 , eminent firm, excellent quality;
• SNR (R172.03), Japan, the price is about 1200 rubles, an almost eternal bearing, if not a fake.

Breakage symptoms

We replace the bearing when the following symptoms appear:

1. Noise and rattling in the front hub.
2. Strong backlash on the bearing.
3. Leakage of grease from under the bearing seal.
4. Mechanical damage to the node.

Ways to replace the front hub bearing on the VAZ-2110

The replacement procedure is not the easiest, but you can save a thousand and a half. It is this amount that is asked only for work at the service station.

To make everything go smoothly, we will need a puller wheel bearings 2108-2112. Unfortunately, without it, we will not be able to remove or press in a new bearing. The screw puller is very simple in design and costs about 300-380 rubles, so it will not become a burden on the budget and will come in handy more than once. We also need a key or head for 30 and a standard set of tools.

The technology of bearing replacement depends on whether we will carry out incidental repairs or replacement of suspension, brake or steering components. You can go one of three ways:

1. Dismantling the bearing without removing the steering knuckle . The fastest and easiest way. You don't even need a viewing hole. It is also good because we do not violate the set camber. Its disadvantage is that it is not very convenient to press out clips on weight.
2. Knuckle removal replacement . Much more work, but the bearing itself can be removed in a vise on a workbench.
3. Dismantling the hub assembly with the rack . This option is the most time-consuming and is used when we simultaneously change the rack, silent blocks, ball bearings, swivel bearings of the rack or other parts. Completely remove the rack to replace the bearing is irrational and time consuming.

If you remove the fist, then you can press out the bearing without a puller.

Replacement algorithm

Having everything necessary tools you can start working immediately. We will replace the bearing following the first algorithm, that is, without disassembling the rack and knuckle

1. We install the car on a flat surface, tighten the handbrake and put stops under the rear wheels.
2. Remove the protective cap of the bearing nut.

   We remove the protective cap.

3. With a 30 head, we tear off the nut. If we have installed alloy wheels, then you have to break the nut with the wheel removed. In this case, it is necessary that the assistant blocks the wheels by pressing the brake.
4. Breaking down wheel bolts and jack up the car.

   We substitute the support under the bottom of the car.

5. We unscrew the caliper, take it away from the brake disc and hang it on a wire hook so that the hoses are in a free position, without tension.

   Set the caliper aside.

6. Remove the brake disc.
7. Unscrew the hub nut.

   Loosen the nut and remove the washer.

8. We take two studs, insert them into the holes of the brake disc and screw them into the hub. Studs must be at least 300-400 mm long.

   We screw the bolts to the full depth of the hub.

9. Gently pull off the hub (with vigorous blows) with the brake disc.

   Having sharply hit the heads of the bolts with the brake disc, we press out the hub.